See, now this could be a really great wine.  The nose is magical.  It has this awesome burnt-rubber match-head briaryness and amazing colour and positively MOVING density to it, BUT.  It’s young–and it’s going.  Absolutely at its peak.  If it were 2 points lower in AL, it would be an A+.  But that’s like saying if Santa Claus were skinny he’d be sexier.  But he wouldn’t be the rolly poly jolly old soul, and there’s a strong argument this wine would not be as sumptuous if it were 14-oh and not indeed SIXTEENFIVE.  Still, solid A game stuff, even…  ♦♦