Clear deep ruby out to very thin, slightly amber edges.  Still staining.  Sweet, heady nose packed with ripe, round dark cherry fruit in massive quantities against layers of chocolate, wet gravel, intense briar, wet leather and extreme vegetal–sweet red peppers, banana-peel and amazing horse-stall.  And everywhere that deep rich fruit–so elegant–just showing faint traces of polish.  This smells *barely* of near-early peak and the structure visible in the bouquet lie horribly about its age.  This thing is going NOWHERE.  In the mouth, supple and bogglingly rich–but not over-extracted or ripe–showing all the minerality and finesse the nose promised.  The decade of age is a little more noticeable on the tongue and it comes close to perfection in fruit/acid integration.  Nowhere is alcohol or oak an issue.  Nowhere is the ugly signs of tourist extraction for the near-term.  It is nearly the Perfect Storm of near-term enjoyment and long-term ability.  Balanced beyond belief, with crisp shards of acid playing with the earthiness and teetering against the lush fruit and careful ageing.  Even an empty glass show no signs of oak–but I know it is there, just judiciously administered.  The still-youthful tannins come charging in–even in the briaryness of the bouquet–and become unmistakable in the finish.  This wine is going absolutely nowhere, soon.  I guessed almost a full point lower than the stated 14-7.  This wine hits on so many levels and is so perfectly integrated.   ♦♦♦  <–that's, like, 98 for the shmucks who need points.