A Quite* Proper Claret

Clear bright ruby with clear edges.  Somewhat staining.  A lil funky at first–this thing needs decanting.  Big woodsy nose–conifer AND broadleaf–over a thinnish fruit and zesty spice.  Nothing too serious, nothing too thin.  Not construed or affected–but definitely riper and rounder than a classic claret.  A lovely blast of eucalyptus and an un-ignorable touch of alcohol accompanies the spice.

It’s funny how this word has changed in the past 20 years.  Do the English still use it?  Whenever I see “Claret” on a label, I assume a slightly thinner, higher-acid, not voluptuously-fruited red wine of BDX-varietal-construction with ample early tannin.  Over the years–in addition to rarely even SEEING the word anymore–it has gotten fatter and riper and I am not sure what even the goal or intent is of using it on a label.  I always felt it a good way to give a classic nod to a second label or a slightly inferior blend after the good stuff has been drained off.  I suppose it is now up to the individual winemaker to express what he wants with a bottle labeled ‘Claret’.  Here, we are clearly dealing with a second label to their considerably more pricey Cab offerings which are double to quadruple the price of this little dinger.  I am quite certain I paid $25.

In the mouth, considerably more fruit than the nose hints of, and the acids take a back seat to the tannin right out of the gate.  A clean, brisk, steely mouthfeel compliments the blossoming fruit.  Hyper-active tannins wipe it all away–but the fruit comes back to haunt after they have faded.  This is a great little wine.  It’s actually 10% Syrah, which kinda bugs me but oh well.  I think the 12% PV is contributing heavily.  A completely overlooked offering–because of its rarity–in the 25-dollar-Napa-Cab sweepstakes but oh man it would be fun to put this up against BV Ruth and Ber KV.  This thing will age amazingly.

2011 RAMEY ‘Claret’ Napa Valley Red Wine 14.5

www.rameywine.com/

*Added so as to not infringe on Randall Grahm’s ‘A Proper Claret®’… Which honestly I haven’t tasted in years.  Hmmm must re-visit.

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