Medium ruby out to slightly bricking edges.  Barely staining.  Massive sed.  Intense green-woody briar after a bit of wet-concrete funk.  Seriously, that is all the bouquet is: deep dark green wood conifer petrichor breathing out to fruit heady with mineral and ripe enough to head into almost-oxidized territory.  The briar and spice keep everything on the bright side.  I really didn’t set out to drink three older Syrahs in a row the past three days.  It needs to stop, too–as the Pinot’s need serious attention.  I drank one of these a couple weeks ago and that night it did not impress terribly so pulled the remaining bottle out for a re-visit.  Pure concentrated–but fading–Syrah fruit, steely and bright but maintaining massive doses of tar and leather.  Succinct and focused, never faltering into *issues* many grown South of there do.  This thing picks a goal–a very Sonoma goal–and doesn’t stray far from it–fruit slightly faded and a like teensy patina but nothing even close to slowing down.  Bitter tannins wrap things up with fruit a distant thin memory.  2006 Berthoud Syrah Sonoma Valley  13-8   ♦
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