Black as night with pink edges, blowing off clouds of thick roiling violet-infused sugar. A nose so cloggingly heady with a lily storm of floral and wet leather you almost overlook the fruit cake and rum balls lying in decadent sweetness inside.
Having a ton of fun working through this stack of Georges Duboeuf Gamays, the Juliénas was a blast, and this Fleurie is equally good–in much different ways. Next up: Their Morgon.
In the mouth, sandpaper minerality cleanses any fantasies of overripe fruit or vapid yumminess you might have had from the bouquet. Bright, focused and–and dare-I-say: even ‘thin’ relative to the nose–perfectly balanced on the cold earth and equally so in the lofty clouds: split with bright sunshine, it brings us back to a baseline of gravitas: pointedly plum and tart-cherry with mild oily tannins.
2015 FLEURIE Clos des Quatre Vents Georges Duboeuf 13.5
Stephen McConnell 
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