Ruddy garnet, medium density way out to wide amber edges. Cacoa nib and buttercream, dull spicy fruit bogged down with banana peel and steam-bath, everything working against an obese impression in the nose, nothing bright or lively.
The blonde cellar-mates of this wine are positively brilliant. Here however, we have something running much quicker toward the d’Alfonso portion of the team: muddy and flatulent, mired in flabby bullshit which barely hides the alcohol. If you don’t think too hard about this wine, you can really enjoy it. But I just described 90% of Paso Robles.
In the mouth, it fares far better, although ignoring the alcohol burn becomes an exercise. Look away for a moment and you can discover a wine quite fresh and lively, bursting with fruit and pendantic acid, oak on point, perfect deep finish and a robust swaddling of each station in alcohol and glycerine. This is a monster, a monster bathed in acid, a monster going on 5 YO and the patina of something so obese is obvious… If that describes a wine you like, knock yourself out.
2012 CURRAN Tempranillo Santa Barbara County 15.4
Stephen McConnell 