Dark ruby, not perfectly clear, with the pink edginess one would expect from Beaujolais.  But it all stops there.  No light, green funkiness here: no, nothing but deep ripe concentration, smothered in dark leather, molasses, caramel and fruit compote.

Quite possibly the richest, most extracted Fleurie I have tasted, it runs so deep the mind wanders to Beaune or even California pinot from the most Euro-style producers.

In the mouth, a steely fruit attacks early, closed in at first, but opening gradually to green bitter lovliness the nose thwarted.  At once thin and vibrant, but at the same time dark and elegant, showing a pond-water roundness, full ripe vibrancy and decadent, stand-alone insiduoisness of fruit and mineral hard to believe from Beaujolais at this low price-point.  A most-perfect restaurant wine and a sipping beauty.

2015 JEAN-LOUIS DUTRAIVE ‘Le Clos’ Grand Cour Fleurie Beaujolais Rhone France 14.5

www.thesourceimports.com/producers/dutraive