Dark garnet, with staining bricked edges. Big alcoholic nose, mossy wet and dried fruit. Hardwood bark and a vibrant scorched cherry. Decanted hard. With air, a steely wet rock replaces the alcohol and scorch, turning things a lovely mineralific minty vegetal.
As I recall, this is the first commercial Cabernet Sapphire Hill made, and it was discussed whether to do it again. I tasted it on a fluke, somewhere–can’t remember–but I couldn’t buy it. Tracked down almost a case at my Healdsburg wine-source and bought all they had. Asked him to re-order. Went to the winery and they were sold out. Wine-shop gets in another 6-pack, I drive back to Healdsburg and buy them all. He marked the price up on this second batch, the bastard! *whatever the market will bear* I went back to Sapphire Hill and started asking about futures. See, this is one of the few wineries who still sell futures. See kids, “futures” are a way to buy wine before it…. oh nevermind. Just join your stupid wine-clubs and be sad. Sure enough, they making another cab and futures were available. I got a case. Of course I had to wait three years for them. I actually haven’t tasted those 2012’s yet. But back to this 09.
In the mouth, a dull explosion of berry fruit does a raspy dance through a stew of chewy tannins coated in Boston-Baked-Beans candy shell. This is salted caramel turtles in a glass. Huge bitter tannins take hold late-palate, causing me to wonder if the fruit will hold out long enough. I judged it would when tasted young, and still feel the same way. I know you’ve probably never heard of this winery before–I sure hadn’t–but check them out when you’re in Sonoma County.
2009 SAPPHIRE HILL Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Sonoma County 14.5
Stephen McConnell 