Gorgeous medium ruby with thin pink edges. That unmistakable thin plummy fruit of Northern Rhone explodes out of the glass, transfixing you in a muddle of cherry compote, wet sea shells, gunpowder and truffle oil.
I have quite a few Kunin wines in my cellar, but when I saw this 2016 on a restaurant list–knowing it one of the last wines he made, I had to order it. Turns out is was the restaurant’s last bottle. So many lasts.
In the mouth, all that floral translates straight into the tongue, a needle pushed in by a clean thrust of mineral and a glimpse of acid which really only starts growing as the finish wears on. Thin and bright and beautiful–while STILL round and rich–a pleasure to drink and inspiring to contemplate.
2016 KUNIN WINES Syrah Santa Barbara County 14.21
Stephen McConnell 