Gamey and cidery, big fermented grape juice nose heavy on the wet straw, pimento and mango sautéed in butter.
NOT your big easy fruit & spice gentleman, but a rather wild, untamed soul, rough & tumble, boots, a sweaty t-shirt, hasn’t shaved today and will give you his coat with an easy smile.
In the mouth, more sexy country. Sharp and lurid on entry, a lemon-tart grasp of green fruit and acid do their best to evaporate the obvious fermentation but merely stand strong and united into a forever–almost tannic–finish.
One of the most interesting and unusual white wines I’ve had in some time, not playing any lush dessert notes, rather being raw and free and singularly alluring. All while managing to NOT be off-notedly natural-wine weird. Beautiful stuff. A wine you sit up and pay attention to. It FORCES you to think about it.
2017 KINGS CAREY Sémillon Happy Canyon Santa Ynez Valley Santa Barbara Co. 12.0
Stephen McConnell 