Green tea and the kind of mint that leaves you breathless in its menthol greatness. Deep woody patina in a salt-water stew rumored with Dr. Pepper and fibreglas warmth, an oak-leaf breath so complex the licorice and Parmesan bitter smooths out everything to oblique greatness, musty and dank while managing brightness along lines perfectly cultured, condescending fruit polished into lines published on shoe-leather and ripe cheese, warm cat fur and Luxardo and knowledge of sweaty sin.

In the mouth, clean, nutty greatness. Hopes and dreams come alive in EVERYTHING you hope for in great Syrah: blackberry fruit; dull acid pinging at tannins in teeth-wiping solidarity with smooth decadence. Buttery and flagrantly edgy in the same breath, it eases onto your tongue deceptively and brilliantly, carving moguls that must be absorbed in the knees but look painless from down below.

You’ve heard me wax poetic about the Pinots, now here’s the Syrah. Because almost ANYONE who makes great cool-climate pinot also make ridiculous Syrah. Big Basin is the real dealio, and this wine is a stunner.

2013 BIG BASIN Syrah ‘Rattlesnake Rock’ Santa Cruz Mountains California 14.4

bigbasinvineyards.com