You know me, always going on about hi-alc and aging and how the sky is falling and the two can never co-exist and every once in a while I am wrong. I love being wrong. This thing’s very dark to look at, but bricking? There’s a little garnet rim, I suppose. Mostly just a black pruny ruby. But that’s where the pruny ends. Vibrant and ridiculously alive in the nose, a bit of earth early on–but not peat or mud, actual potting soil, haven’t really gotten that one before. It immediately starts blowing deep dark fruit hard, cherry and super-ripe plum, a marischino hint to everything and a sharp brilliant note more rusty than leather, more petrichor than tobacco. Shocked at the lack of tertiary in this 17-year-old.
I saw this label just the other day and asked a couple locals about it and got no answers. By golly, what falls into my hands quite accidentally yesterday? BOOM. I’ve literally googled everything including the website on the label and come up dead. Looks like it is made at Denner, by Hilary Graves and it appears this 2002 was their FIRST wine. Wow. How do I got so lucky. Although, when I turned it around and saw the 15-oh, I internally grimaced.
In the mouth, a gorgeous waterfall of fruit. Thick, unctuous fruit. Spicy, deliberate fruit. Grainy, chewy fruit, middle so alive with briary bitterness and slathered in acid, a seamless sweet transition to what I *guess* are tannins, but oh man are they a soft landing. Beautiful dark chocolate sundae, covered in Chex mix and buried in a black tea elixir. Is there heat? Yes. Gotta be honest. But far more shocking is the absolute and total lack of tertiary.
I would KILL to taste this thing young. Holy wow what a nice wine.
2002 GRAVES Syrah Paso Robles 15.0
I know this wine can be purchased, if someone can come up with a website, LMK. I mean–this chick’s the president of the Farm Bureau or something, so can’t be that hard to find.