Brown Feud

Brownish unfiltered garnet. A most ridiculous cinnamon toast crunch nose, all flabby spice and smoooooth dessert and fat cherry lollipop with a little dustiness for good measure. I ordered this off a list at a restaurant which had no vintages listed and never even checked. This is feeling like maybe ’14 or ’15. Let me check. Yeah, it’s a 2015. Warm and all roasted-feeling in the nose, just still, warm alcohol and flabby wine. No compelling youth or fruit.

In the mouth, dull chemical burn start-to-finish. Un-compelling doesn’t even begin to give it justice here. Fruit soggy and flaccid, bitterly thin while aggressively ripe, creating an awkward sea-saw of imbalance. These kinds of juxtapositions seem impossible in a wine, no? Of COURSE not. Nothing is impossible in a huge winery. Fruit a far distant memory in the background, never really exposing itself around the green alcoholic bitter.

This thing could be 10 years old, and I wouldn’t bat an eye. Chubby and concentrated–BUT NO FRUIT–oxidation showing in every crack, it is easily one of the most disappointing Italian wines in recent memory. It’s drinkable, but barely.

2015 FEUDI DI SAN GREGORIO Aglianico Rubrato DOC Campania Irpinia Italy 13.5