Somewhere between Tokaj and Jura resides this wine. Incredible smoky nutty sweet composty grass funky nose, coming off an amber deep enough to have an almost rosy hue. Latex and butter–no petrol–maybe a speck of diesel exhaust oxidizing the viscous nose.

I’m almost afraid to taste this. My experiences with skin-contact whites have been underwhelming to say the least because I’m not cool enough or hip enough or trendy enough to embrace the orange. Actually, Hipster-somm: that’s not it. I just know bad wine when I taste it. And I can still taste most of the skin-contact whites I have been subjected to. Classic Pinot Gris is exempt from this conversation.

I know NOTHING about this wine. Because of who gave it to me, I’m *guessing* it is Croatia. But that’s it. I can’t pronounce anything on the label, and not sure if it’s supposed to be sweet or not. Even now, these late swirls are richening and deepening the bouquet–and yes, this wine is old enough to call “bouquet”. Oh hey look there’s english on the back label. It is Croatia. It is SB, PG, Friulano, Verduzzo, Glera, Riesing, and PB in identical quantities. It also says 13-5, which I’m going to interpret as DRY.

In the mouth–oh yes it’s dry, bone dry–a lot of the rich full nuttiness and age translates right onto the tongue. It would be very interesting to taste this thing young, although the *kitchen sink* blend isn’t going to win any typicity awards. Round and full, definitely mouth-filling, the fruit is a tired melon fighting valiantly to stave off the incredible acidity. A chewable-Vit-C blast emerges mid-palate, propping up the kiwi and Granny Smith, and yet at the same time there is this candied-yam from Thanksgiving tone to it.

A very interesting wine, and brilliant at almost 10. Very *red wine-ish*. I mean–this thing has serious chops: not flabby like some Chards or Viogniers are sometimes described as “red wine-y”, this one is lean and mean, like the wine version of Blaufrankish or St. Laurent. A rather astonishing white wine.

2010 ROXANICH ‘Ines u Bijelom Cuvee’ Istria Croatia 13.5