Hearts Abound

A most luscious of Paso cabernet offerings. But still in the playing-field of serious wine-people. You know what I mean: So many offerings from that area are so *adjusted* for the american sweet-tooth and oak-fascination as to render them undrinkable by most of the people I choose to talk about wine. Big banana, baklava and fat cherry reduction. A graininess to the Cabernet spirit undeniable and welcome for something this black in the glass. Still, chunky dessert, glycerine and chubby concentration abound in the nose, but not TOO chubby. Green-brier and black walnut sparkle the bouquet, an edgy elderberry liqueur playing along with the spirit of the oak and fennel.

Decanted heavily. Based on smell, I’m gonna pin this at about 14-7–by no means obese by Paso standards and possibly even below the norm. It kinda smells and tastes like a 2012 Napa–although with better back end.

Luscious and biting in the mouth. NOWHERE does pre-conceived opinions of ripe Paso cab or even the flab in the nose rise out. Bitter and awesome, fruit dangling on sinewy threads of sprite and spirit–all dark brilliance in a theatre of equally dark structure. Spicy and understated initially, everything swells to justifiable proportions mid-palate. An absolute INFANT–and one which will benefit from a decade of careful storage, the dedication to straight-forward cab personification and the cinnamon/licorice/wet-leather cap on the succulent berry are all I need to be sold. Well, and then there’s the grating tannins. Those help too.

2017 HEART OF THE MATTER Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles California 14.8

www.heartofthematterwines.com

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