Crazy buttered popcorn, caramel and milk chocolate nose. Spritely buttery palate so sharp and acidic, glowing nectarine and plum across ripe-pear railroad ties. Solid cardboard in entry, a mahogany middle governed by applesauce and a finish proving the big houses can actually make wine. Whaddaya gonna do? Hate all you want–this is stupidly gorgeous nutty rich fun.

NV CHAMPAGNE TAITTINGER ‘Brut la Francaise’ Champagne 12.5

www.taittinger.com/en