Bottle number 11 of a case purchased at the Foley sale for basically 10% of retail. A sister-case of 2006 faded into oblivion several years ago, but these proved a bit stronger. First whiff on pour said, “Gone,” but quickly breathed off the bottle funk and actualy became charming. Oh it’s beyond peak–don’t get me wrong–but fading gently without the cooked nothingness the ’06 showed. Amber-brick with moldy vegetal and candied fruit, with still enough Christmas spice and Rutherford dustiness to please.

Tasting it brings on more maraschino berry, but with a grippy core of acid and worn structure to make for decent balance. No ridiculous tertiary to be found: the blackberry and currant melded down into faded creme de cassis so as to not insult the palate, but without gobs of leather or wood or furniture polish. The finish still shows beautiful balance of healthy tannin with sharp fruit glistening. Not sure how much Merlot is in it–or how long I will wait to pop #12–but rather impressed. Not sure what the current ownership of this label is–the Foley thing went away a few years ago–but a shocking number of these old wines and current releases appear on the site.

2007 SAWYER CELLARS ‘Bradford Meritage’ Rutherford Napa Valley 14.1

www.sawyercellars.com/