I can’t believe my luck at stumbling on a producer in Paso making such delicious, drinkable wines. Across the board. Great vineyard sources, all, and here is a great example. Sure the west-side gets all the plaudits and blingy price-points, but as I have long championed: the vast sprawling expanses of east-side make the *working-man’s* wines–especially cab and merlot. I’m guessing probably Estrella or El Pomar here, and the solid focus and incredible structure–in the face of easy enjoyability–speaks volumes.Dank and dirty in the nose, the berry cherubic while glossing the kind of concentration and complexity many struggle for.
The ache of sharp briar introduces itself immediately on entry, charming and fluffing the dark fruit, but no burnt or over-wrought textures exist. The dustiness of Napa or the clanging charge of Alexander Valley are not present in great forces–only hinted at, because this is, after all PURE PASO. Grainy grit rises to the surface, pushing overt sweetness or decided maceration or manipulation–all trademarks of Paso Robles–into vague rememberances. What we’re left with is great wine: easy, low alcohol, an acidic and vegetal heat taking the place of our accustomed alcoholic burn. It’s so easy in its concentration, and the blend is percect: the juiciness of Merlot going tête-à-tête with the rash beauty of well-managed Cabernet in a blend to make you smile. Only a couple barrels here boys and girls, so don’t hesitate, cuz there’s not enough of this to go around.
2021 DETENTE ‘Eastern Bloc’ ME/Cab 50/50 Paso Robles 13.5
Stephen McConnell 