I drank a bottle of this a few months ago and I don’t recall being super-impressed. I mean–as impressed as one needs to be with American-retail cheap BDX from an AOC the stronghold of classic claret and a decade old. That’s actually quite a few qualitiers. Running into it again, it’s even harder to resist on Bev-Mo’s current 6’s and 7’s sale. If you watch my stories on IG, you knew about this a month ago, but if you only read the blog, you’re hearing about this after it has been CONSIDERABLY picked over. But there’s still lots of bargains in the French and Italian section. This also is not one of bevmo’s *exclusives*–something else I avoid like the plague. Bricking terribly in the glass, a rather wonderful nose of dusty fruit climbs out, perching on a taut ledge of Borkum Rif and old theatre seats–EVEN a bit of buttered popcorn and dried cola stuck to your shoes. It’s so deep and dark–rich and decadent in bouquet–but gravelly. Decanted generously.
Tasting it isn’t quite is expressive–something assuredly the “twelve-point-oh” factors. A richly fruited and concentrated entry collapses into acid and dryness almost immediately, exploring an austere region only die-hard fans of BDX will appreciate. California Palates just fuggetaboutit. That’s why it is surprising to see this wine at bevmo, as most of their euro wines are dedicated to the american sweet-tooth. That’s why it’s on clearance, believe me. This wine isn’t going to get much better. It isn’t going to get much worst–and if so: very slowly. I’m not saying you should rush out and buy this wine. But it IS very interesting. It IS typicitous. It IS classic and moderately roiling in tertiary. It IS an instant cellar for those of you complaining you never have old wines. And it’s a beautiful claret–nothing more.
2012 CHATEAU MAILLARD Graves AOC Bordeaux France 12.0
Stephen McConnell 