This is an odd little wine, and loyal followers know what a huge fan I am of these original bottlings. But this is an weirdly-plain little thing. These wines are never absolute blockbusters, but the kind of calm, reasonably calculated–usually quite funky–charm they present makes me a fan. But here we have something plain and boring. No nose to speak of. Really quite nothing. A little moldy chocolate, slightly meaty nuance: no fruit, no funk, no vegetal, no nothing.

Tasting it elevates things a tad: it introduces itself vaguely fruity, but all in dull, lackluster ways. Dark garnet with some brick in the glass, the screwtop and provenance perfect, mild acid curling the edges of the tongue progressing to basically *heat* without compelling stuffing. Not unpleasant to drink, but comes off wholly like a cheap, uninteresting rhone headed into its graveyard years. Rather surprising, as I have enjoyed many other versions far older than this. I have a couple more, and the next bottle will tell the whole story.

2014 BONNY DOON ‘Le Cigare Volant’ GR/MV/SY/CS/VG 39/35/17/7/2 Central Coast 14.1

www.bonnydoonvineyard.com/