A little paso cab beauty you’ve never heard of, but from a long lineage of family wine-making. Brilliantly thin–both in appearance and body–something not often seen in Paso Cab as everyone reaches for deeper and denser muddles of concentration to keep up with ‘The Next Napa’ headlines in the wine tabloids. But here we have something which almost feels like 2011 Napa. Remarkably briary, acid- and vegetal-driven in the nose, lingering glimpses of that *Paso heat* for typicity, but the whole thing smells astonishingly focused on restraint: another word bandied about in the region and hardly ever fits the subject.
More visions of 2011 in the mouth, as sharp acid and plentiful structure muss around with gorgeous spice and pure Cab nuance. The fruit is a supple pie-cherry and pomegranate: bitter edges shining everywhere in a body devoid of the typical stewed blackberry and Comstock Cherry hot oaky asphalt pie. Astringent and glowing with light, bright body throughout, the fruit folding sharply down into plentiful tannin in the finish.
2015 TW FERMCO ‘Straight Cab’ Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 14.2
Stephen McConnell 