One of the most exciting new labels to come down the plank these days, Pinot with no nods to the 99 and only rash exuberance and delightful nuance. A bit of ripeness is present, but throughout are splinters of greatness and pure pinot aplomb. A musty nose reflecting dirty-baby-diaper and gobs of vegetal; a color thin and vibrant while still nodding to the garnet gods; lavish black cherry distinction layered on spice and briar.

Tasting it reflects everything one seeks in a top-quality new-world offering: the dusty entry all peaty and rich; the acid swelling through middle to create grating edginess; the finish fruity and thin, everything cascading to perfect balance and verve. Sharp and alive, every point prodding at in-explainable beauty, the tannin grasping every pore in youthful pieces of wonder. An absolute classic and a testament to WHERE PINOT SHOULD BE in today’s marketing of over-ripe, lushly-fruited merlot-clones where alcohol and *smoothness* are key points. A bit of early oxidation troubles me, but pretty much a timeless wine lasting a good decade. Gorgeous stuff.

2019 CIVILIZATION WINE CO Pinot Noir Ampelos Vyd. Santa Barbara Co. 13.5

https://civwine.com/