A label I haven’t visited in probably 15 years and pretty off-the-radar of #pasobro, dealing with Italian varieties and flying low. A gift from a client and I am enthusiastic as usual–because I love barbera and all things along these lines. Deep, dark impenetrable ruby-purple in the glass, a nose going rather burnt while still spicy-bright with nuance. Incredible rich fruit, the black cherry deep and invigorating, the peppery background enlivening all aspects of the variety in a warm, rotund way. Generous funk adds much to the party, a glycerin-ey sort of concentration not terribly distracting from base-values of things you expect from the grape.

In the mouth, acid churns vivaciously into the forefront, and remains a contending factor throughout. It brings the ripeness down multiple notches–something *most* Paso wines can not boast. Distinct pomegranate gratiness etches all areas, the mouth-feel going gloriously thin and vibrant despite the slutty nose. It’s all harsh plum and poivre-blanc across the palate, the instigation of definitive Paso typicity coming across strong in some areas–the beauty of restrained Italy flushing forward in others. This is a rather beautiful wine, so aching of spirit while pounding gobs of beautiful fruit into the mainstream. I could drink this all day long. Significant apparent extended age in barrel or bottle seals the deal. A classic Italian.

2019 FRATELLI PERATA Barbera Paso Robles 14.2

https://fratelliperata.com/