Absolutely no nose whatsoever on this wine. What tiny glimpses you do get are meager, burnt affectations of perhaps eucalyptus or briary vegetal. Decanted vigorously. Gradually, a super-ripe essence emerges, all toasty and oily, with fruit a clamoring dark berry of thick concentration–and not imperssive or even enjoyable. Roiled with an off-putting bouquet of glycerine and chubby something-or-other, I can’t wait to taste it.
It improves slightly in the mouth. Pretty much a classic hard-as-nails Italian scoped for the long-run and NOT early enjoyment. I’m being generous here. Sharp acidity introduces vague fruit and everything hinges on spicy vegetal. Deep elements of obfuscating tannin cloud the finish. And it’s only 14-oh! I’m asking myself, WHO would produce a second label (or third maybe in this case) of inexpensive IGT fashioned in such a repressive manner requiring a decade or more to be enjoyable???
But not so fast, McConnell: what about Crognolo? What about Carpineto? Both of those are ridiculously austere young, not even BEGINNING to express themselves under 10 years. Is this another one of those? Where this differs from those two is an absolute unwillingness to please–even down into trains of thought where “This is a poorly-made wine” begin to formulate. It’s just so bleak. And the burnty aspects go far to mold that opinion. How much MT and Sangio are in this? Some will call it a powerhouse. Some will call it plonk. You decide. Will it come around? Fruit doesn’t grow in a wine. This *has* fruit. It’s just weirdly presented.
2018 ORNELLAIA ‘Le Volte’ IGT Red Wine Toscano Italy 14.0
Stephen McConnell 