I tried Caymus’ new ‘California’ cab last night. It honestly wasn’t as bad as I expected. Oh it’s bad–don’t get me wrong–cloying and concentrated, the whole concept a burnt garish steroidal concoction with the complexity of an Old Fashioned. It feels like Paso had a love-child with Sonoma perhaps, with strong brush-strokes inside the lab. Still, it makes Bonanza taste like Togni.

Funny: the ABV is actually higher than regular Napa–14-7 to 14-4 respectively–something I guarantee is 1000% ‘marketing’ for the two fairly different demographics. Pitch-black bright purple in the glass, the nose charmingly spicy and actual glimpses of tannin lurking under the body I feel more ‘restrained’ than the yellow bottle. The whole thing like pouring pancake syrup on a papercut.

The rapid proliferation of labels and spin-off brands from this *family* has me envisioning the drumbeat of a sale being groomed. Imagine a scenario where Schooner, 1856, California, Bonanza, Walking Fool and maybe even Suisun-Durif go to Constellation or Suntory and Joe keeps his SS, Napa and Zin.

2021 CAYMUS Cabernet Sauvignon California 14.7

www.caymus.com/