From the land of mediocre SB and *potential* Pinot comes this little Chard. And–like a lot of wines I review–I don’t know the price-point. Which is a good thing. Not too pale–not too golden, it pumps out a strong weedy green nose charmed with flint and granite. The richness of the variety is there, a smoky-ashtray covering on concentrated floral and firm plum and nectarine.
Tasting it produces a sort of 50/50 Chablis/California realization–something I greedily look forward to in New World versions. I love Chablis, and I love California. Some burgs are too austere, and I don’t have to tell you some California’s are somewhat… um… rotund. Here we have a nice, spicy entry, pointed with gobs of acidity, quickly mellowing to delightful round peach and crisp apple. Started on this wine about 65°, took it down to low 50° and found the sweet-spot in the mid-to-hi 50’s–like almost every chard I enjoy. For those of you uninitiated on temperature control, remember: this is TWENTY DEGREES WARMER than basically EVERYONE will drink this wine. I have no idea what this drinks like out of an ice bucket, because you’re losing out on EVERYTHING beautiful in a Chardonnay. OK, #sermonover … Moving on: Rich malo ripeness floods the middle, a gloriousness on the palate spiked by the minerality and grainy dust. The finish is tart and reflects a bit of tannin and significant neutral oak dots the mouth-feel. This is a gorgeous wine.The intake slides smoothly through to last glimpses and THAT is what we call “balance”.
2021 KUMEU RIVER ‘Estate’ Chardonnay New Zealand 13.5
Stephen McConnell 