Amarone in the US somewhat gets a certain set of asterisks from the 1%… not from #winebro of course, where the syrupy concoctions are competing with their vision of great–also syrupy–California wines from Napa and Paso. But the rest of us, who value acid and complexity… We’re not going to say anything BAD about it, because we understand the history and method and generosity it can show, but for me, there’s a certain amount of eye-rolling whenever I am faced with one. Usually you can see it in the glass, even before you grasp the massive alcohols and taste the concentration. But then you get ahold of a true version: Medium ruby in the glass, fully transparent with bricking edges. A nose pumping greasy funk and briary vegetal out in spades, the fruit contained therein a myriad of berry elixirs–none of them cloying–all pointing toward Heaven. Could this be the longest-aging wine produced in Italy? In certain formats, I would vote that direction. Like this one.
Tasting it defies reason if you have seen the ridiculous ABV. I did look at it, but only a moment ago after my second pour. Decanted heavily. Acid and structure on 11, the bitter angst of briar and pepper burning on all points and alcohol taking a second chair. Supple and forgiving, the berry bright, churning shocking aspects of raspberry and apple onto the palate. No prune, no maraschino, no Nyquil. Stunning of spirit and youthful beyond description, an oak element going American in its rasp of tobacco and coffee-ground dedication. The middle never plasters over any sins committed by the entry or finish: everything pointedly set in place in stunning fashion. A wine like this brings an outspoken critic to his knees: nearly indescribable in complexity, eternally ageless, and still forthright of spirit. You literally can NOT find a flaw with this wine.
2015 GUERRIERI RIZZARDI ‘Calcarole’ Corvina/Rondinella/Barbera/Sangio Amarone Della Valipolicella DOCG Classico Riserva Veneto Italy 17.0 YES YOU READ THAT RIGHT
Stephen McConnell 