Dark and biting, an almost-typical Paso rendering of Bordeaux-blend nuances, but with a hesitation before the full-on burnt over-ripeness clouding so many examples. Rather subdued nose, shyly exposing mint and must but the concentration and semi-burnt aspects are present. Decanted heavily. Glassine in glycerine aspects, a thick layer of fruit laid down on hi-alc presentation. Chocolate and tobacco slowly exude along spicy trails of thick berry. Black and impenetrable in the glass, a sliver of ruby gracing the rim.
Far more enjoyable on the palate than the nose would suggest. Gracious spritely acid somewhat burns the entry, but I feel it’s mostly alcohol. Deeply macerated fruit pulls ridiculous blackberry preserves and maraschino onto the tongue, the complexity a shooting-gallery of is it or is it not viable in today’s world of hi-end Cabernet blends. Vague vagaries of spice and dustiness glance here and there, all in fair balance and directive to the goal. Tannin a nice touch, though alcohol pervades everything. A beautiful wine but one succeeding on key-word structural elements the 99 will swoon over but lacks the finesse *this* reviewer needs to fully endorse.
2019 HEARST RANCH ‘The Point’ Cab/Bec/PV/ME/CF 32/28/16/12/12 Paso Robles 14.9
Stephen McConnell 