Bright yellow in the glass, a sumptuous nose of rich, sweet nectar and smoky oak. Marzipan and almond paste laid down in thick layers on a savory core of Chardonnay *instincts* but not Chardonnay *fruit*.

Drinking it fails to bring anything forward to compel the senses. It’s yummy–there’s no argument there–but yummy to a demo I typically don’t drink Chardonnay with. I don’t like this wine: let’s just cut to the chase. The mouthfeel is rich and sweet, smoooooth oak and butter abound, its only saving grace a shrill spike of mineral in the finish. Granted, I’m drinking it where I consume most of my wines of this variety: in the 60’s. Down in the 50’s it’s a bit more powerful, producing a bit more welcome austerity, crispness and obfuscation of syrup, but naturally: fruit basically never materializes. Sure, there’s bits of stewed Granny Smith and possibly soft kiwi and as a BTG offering to the general public I’m sure it would be a winner. But it’s not *this reviewer’s* style of chard. Too rich; too flabby; too sweet; too boring; I need some BITE, some green grasp; some bitterness and acidic liveliness. Gotta pass on this one. I mean: if you’re drinking Rombauer and Far Niente and Sonoma Cutrer, this is definitely a step in the right direction. But it doesn’t hit on levels I can truly endorse. Just too mainstream.

2020 MARITANA ‘La Riviere’ Chardonnay Russian River Valley Sonoma 14.0

https://maritanavineyards.com/