Digging deep nto a Milano orphan tonight–from 2009, but these people insist on bottle-age at the winery, so not THAT old in the grand scheme. Check out their website for some CRAZY deals on older cabs. And from Mendo, which always gets me going… A little understandable brick in the glass, nose roily with dark, carmelized berry and briar, some off-putting nuances at first glimpse: rotund and HEAVY tertiary reduction with considerable wet-ashtray smokiness.

Tasting it also reiterates the *wet ashtray* vision: sharply acidic–burning, even–as early fruit falls victim to tiredness and general lack of aplomb. The definite musty briar of the nose infects the palate throughout, though with air it gains a bit more elegance. Generous fruit fills the middle, where still-copious tannin begin their beat and obfuscate everything into the finish. Probably at or slightly past-peak, and I can’t help but note with asterisk what I’m guessin is 15+, but checking my notes shows par for the course through the life-span of this rustic, wonderful, un-sung producer. Definitely a conversation-piece.

2009 MILANO FAMILY WINERY Cabernet Sauvignon Largo Ridge Vyd Mendocino Co. 15.5

https://milanowines.com/index.html