I don’t know who’s a RUSH fan here, but this is a powerful Rhone/BDX blend showing what Paso is capable of–to varying extents. Dark and concentrated, a nose reflecting deep smoky layers on top of capable fruit. SOOOO much smoky oak, the briar and brine barely able to exude itself above. But fruit is there: rich, tobacco-y leather with very little *lace* unless copious concentration is your idea of lace. It’s burly and brawny, but notes of elegance manage inspiration.

Tasting it causes reflection on everything Paso is capable of–though a kitchen-sink blend–with gobstopping ripeness not terribly alcoholic and wired with acid and structure. Reading the ingredients of this I am basically going to go SY/PV as the compelling factors inspiring typicity of variety. It’s flush with fruit and spirit, but also edged with crazy bitter structure. Blends like this are taken as content-only, as no classic comparisons can be made except in various Spanish or South-France weirdness. No place-station exists for concoctions like this, and it is left to the consumer to judge. A flush middle fades to finish with Grenache and Malbe chubbiness while the PV keeps everything rather cab-like. It’s a great wine–taken as a whole–but where it sits in the heirarchy of great wines remains to be seen.

2018 DUBOST ‘Jacob’s Ladder’ SY/PV/Bec/GR 40/25/25/10 Adelaida District Paso Robles 14.0

www.dubostwine.com/