This could be the new gateway-wine to the un-initiated on *weird varieties* (or “weird varietals” as they would say). Gone is the shear wall of structural blackness and obfuscation often seen, and in its place a sweetish, fruit-FWD drop unassuming on first sight, but packed with all the goodness of PV. Impenetrable black ruby in the glass with blue edges, ridiculously staining, a nose of dusty dark berry laid down on leathery, vanilla luster.

Tasting it drives home several of the instincts one will occasionally gravatate to this grape bottled alone, and also highlights its value as a BDX blending component. Pitch-dark on the palate, but alleviated around the rim with sparks of delicious, budding fruit. Bright raspberry and kiwi bring a user-friendly aspect to the party, a gritty middle chalky and rich–bristling with acid–the full whallop of concentration slowly placated by easy tannin. It runs high-notes throughout, never giving way to the impossible approachability of most versions. Blind? I don’t know what I would say… CF perhaps? Even Syrah, though I could probably talk myself out of Rhone instincts with careful consideration. This is a red-wine-lover’s RED WINE through-and-through: touches of gamy chocolate infusing the whole thing but always taking a back seat to the rich thickness of berry. When you see the price, you’ll buy all you can afford.

2021 NSO by DUSTY NABOR Petit Verdot Los Olivos District Santa Ynez Valley Santa Barbara Co. 14.5

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