This is an interesting little wine, and you KNOW I hate *the story of wine* but this one has a bit of background: Obviously the brand needs no introduction, but this ‘Small Lots’ is gathered from the plethora of back-yard hillside vineyards in SCM. I forget the number–17 or 19 or something–all individual plantings–some professionally managed, some probably not–scattered throughout the AVA from which this wine is gathered and made. I’m guessing fermented together, but I suppose they could all be individually fermented and blended… the logistics of such a cuvee boggle, though here it is. Probably the most expensive screw-top you’ve had outside of Australia or Plumpjack, shrill and decisive on original tasting: now with 5 years under its belt, settling down quite nicely.
Still running a blue-ish rim from medium-density ruby, the nose scrapes all the wonder of SCM down into a cab so elegant it’s rather shocking. Nutty and crisp, the glycerine dedicated to spice and clean barrel-programme instinctive throughout. Funk and minerality chime together in astonishing fashion, leading to one of the finest examples of restrained California Cabernet imagineable, with shudders of Bordeaux thriving along the length and breadth.
Tasting it offers a rather difference from first-purchase, where I saw the possibility shining through the rash structure. At 5, it is moving down into drinkability and enjoyment for even the shallowest of palates. One of those rare wines where the instant you taste it you know you have a long-term winner on your hands. Bottle number 11 of a case, I will enjoy watching this wine progress for another two decades. It’s that good. Closed-in and austere of entry, the grandiosity of fruit a grimy grain etching patterns across the tongue while rich berry explodes beneath in subtle fashion. Completely reminiscent of Togni, Dunn, Ridge, Dehlinger, Marcassin or Forman this is TEXTBOOK classic cab prepared by a master. Nothing slutty appears ANYWHERE, the acid swelling and tannin a rash streak curling the toes. If you have the opportunity to purchase, I highly recommend as much as you can store. This is an unsung hero.
2018 KATHRYN KENNEDY ‘Small Lot Cabernet’ Santa Cruz Mountains California 13.9
Stephen McConnell 