Green, grimy and spirited in the nose–rather shocking for me from a Paso #winebro favorite–but distinct vegetal Syrah ire packed throughout the bouquet. I don’t even know if it’s Syrah–I haven’t checked the label yet–and knowing the region, it’s fairly safe to assume a GSM of some sort but I’m *hoping*–for the redeeming of my palate–it is majority Syrah. Could be large chunks of Mourvedre in there, and god knows what crimes against Grenache they commit up there, so it’s an open book. But it feels like Syrah: and a rather nice one. Smoky and funky, a dirty-baby-diaper patina cast over all, it’s ripe, yes, but plenty of structure and other things to keep the wine1percent interested cast a velvet curtain over probably a solid 15-oh.
In the mouth, a sharp, dry entry encourages my SY/MV guesses. Beautiful black cherry fruit laid richly on tobacco and oak work well with the incredible minerality and pure angst of the wine. I’m guessin it has maybe 4-5 years on it and frankly: can go the distance. Gobs of blackberry and sharp pomegranate enliven and dry the tongue down into gloriously bitter tannin iced with delicious fruit for ever and ever. A stunning wine from a winery I was once kicked out of for not having a reservation (long before covid). This is beautiful stuff though. I haven’t had Syrah this good from Paso in a long time and it ranks right up there.
2017 BOOKER ‘Vertigo’ SY/MV/GR 65/30/5 Paso Robles 14.9
Stephen McConnell 