Ahhhhh Mendo Zin. One of the great pleasures in life. Mendo hits differently–whether it’s Pinot, Cab, or ZINFANDEL. I like to say the typical expressions from each of these three are related: it’s a vegetal thing, a funk and ire thing, a grainy structure thing–often hard to explain. This one fits well into the catagory, feeling Italian and rustic on one hand while expressing rather elegant focus on the other. The nose is dark and brightly spiced, fruited to ELEVEN with all the jammy stuffings of Zin. A tree-bark sort of black walnut/raisin situation falls in step with the blackberry preserves and pie.
In the mouth, we’re going back in the classic days of Zin–like most Mendocino producers I frequent. Transparent of body and shrill with acidity, it delivers onto the palate not only the distinct frequencies of the variety, but with thin, gorgeous aplomb. There’s no backing down from this grape, but the distinction in favorable versions lies firmly in its integration with acid and structure. A little rusticity goes a long way, too. I’m guessing well under the sweaty 15… 16-oh tinctures so popular now, but a fair bit of alcoholic heat presents itself late-middle. Drying of finish, a chalky repose provides perfect backdrop for the boisterous berry. Clearly designed for the long-run, this is a 20-year bottle. And the great thing is: this is priced down where we old-timers remember Zin being presented. It’s win-win.
2020 BARRA ‘Reserve’ Zinfandel Mendocino Co. California 14.5
Stephen McConnell 