Transparent ruby with just a hint of amber in the far wings. A nose packed with briar and ridiculously concentrated mountain angst flows freely, running that marvelous sashay between Pinot and Syrah only great Grenache designed for true purists of the grape can do. Dark black cherry hits almost amaro-like in its wealth of body and intense bouquet. Oh, it’s ripe–for sure–but raspy throughout, hinting at a mouthfeel unlike any of the chub-fests from Paso, Washington, and beyond designed for the *bigger-is-better* points-gatherers.
On the palate, crisp dedication to a blockbuster style is apparent, with “crisp” being the operative difference. Chalky and sharp–even from the first intake–the copious fruit a mere background to bite and power. Pomegranate pith and pie-cherry somehow create a deep, smoky ire against stony fortitude. It’s gorgeous in all ways though needs a bit of settling down before it becomes a lush monster. A 20-year wine.
2020 MEEKER Grenache Venturi Vyd Mendocino Co 14.5
Stephen McConnell 