I remember buying this at Madeline’s in Cambria. It wasn’t cheap, has THE MOST garish horrible label, and I know nothing about it. Blind, I would have instantly said, “Greg Linn Syrah.” Actually, that’s what I DID say instantly when I tasted it, it feels SO strongly like that very distinct style. Dirty and burnt, considerably fatigued but fruit still rich and concentrated, just deep down dark and smoldering with tertiary funk and hog-wallow earthiness. The nose goes tired-pinot in its formulation of vegetal and spice, grasping at that sort of cardboardy newsprint and amber berry. Interesting as a one-off drinker, just not something I’d want to visit daily.

Tasting it rings brash concentration onto the palate, but in an extremely sultry, over-rubbed sort of way. Thick viscosity beleaguers the fruity points, driving the whole thing down into a dreary mash, spicy-hot notes charmingly masquerading as acid. Chewy and dense, it thins out refreshingly in finish, where ample tannin mingle with grainy grit and flavor-profile goes opposite directions. Again: a very interesting wine, not ridiculously unbalanced, but enough so to garner asterisk. Absolutely at peak, and now I have to go study this dreadful label for the next line.

2012 CERRO MITICO ‘Beast of Prey’ Syrah Santa Maria Valley California 15.35

www.vinomitico.com/ seems to be defunct