Nothing like a week in France to completely re-set your metabolism on inexpensive, workhorse wines. I mean, face it: most of the people reading this drink a LOT of California wines–and rather expensive wines. When was the last time you had a bottle that cost less than 35 bucks? And a couple weeks ago, if I would have opened this, I would probably have declared it a bit coarse, rough around the edges, funky and sharp. But today, I can’t help but imagine ordering this–label unknown–for 20 euros off some bistro list and being blown away by its depth and beauty alongside local fare. Gorgeous purple-ruby in the glass with pink edges. Dirty-baby-diaper and explosive dense briar captivate the nose, all wrapped tightly around sharp pie-cherry and cranberry.
Smoky and alive on the palate: serious tobacco and weedy ire moving seamlessly in and out of harsh, acidic fruit. But it’s ripe. A ripeness slightly moved-aside by generous Vit-C garishness and obvious youthful tannin. It’s a lemonade elixir borne on sugary kisses, the berry plump and bursting–the structure un-relenting. A remarkable wine–and discovered at deep discount.
2021 DOMAINE DE BEAUMEFORT ‘Massif d’Uchaux’ Cotes du Rhone Villages AOP 14.0
Stephen McConnell 