This is going to be the most austere Merlot you’re gonna taste this week outside of BDX. Gone are the plush fittings many equate with the variety, and present are a sultry, non-fruit-FWD nose and entry, crazy raspy acidity and harsh tannin. You are going to think it’s Alexander Valley cab or DCV cab as it glows with incredible briar and structure to last a couple decades. CLASSIC Meeker here, and why I have been in love with this producer for 30 years. No floppy hat juiciness or 99%-pleasing plushness or velvet, it’s all fire and ice–a true 1% wine notching the lipstic-case of those of us who unabashedly adore Merlot. Medium density and glass-staining, the thin pink rim exposing youthfulness while the body carries depth and aplomb far beyond what generally is expected. Gritty of bouquet and ratchety of substance, a more glorious example would be hard to find. Decanted heavily.

There IS sweet delicacy in the entry, but it is a thin, raspy vivaciousness–again: more akin to cab than its chubby sister. Black and burning over middle, your tongue fighting desperately to shed structure clogging every pore. I’m going to guess this hi-13’s, though ripeness flows freely from areas of careful search in a balance–once you get past the puckery-ness–hinting at higher. Distinctly reminiscent of North Coast offerings from the 70’s and 80’s, this wine is absolute FIRE and pricing–typical of Merlot–a cool 20-spot less than the cab make this a no-brainer. Buy two cases: drink one a year.

2019 MEEKER ‘Handprint Series’ Merlot Sonoma County 14.8

http://meekerwine.com/