Finally got into the middle child of a care package from Tuscany, and like the (new) winemaker said, it is truly cut from a bit different cloth than the newer release. This was made by his grandfather, who kept things at a much riper, more new-world-friendly super-Tuscan style. It lacks the vibrancy of the 2021, relying instead on classical–nyet: *safe*–nuances of heady black fruit and extended barrel programmes. Deep and brooding, the nose grinds blackberry and dank cherry hard into the palate, perched atop much sexy oak.
The absence of Sangiovese is rather stark here, and a reflection of left-bank BDX arises pure and shining. Smoky with copious funky derivatives resplendent in European finesse, it presents sharp herbasceous under-pinnings, lightening and brightening the heavy load of Cabernet & friends. At four, tertiary is still foreign to the conversation, the chewy, chalky deposit of masculine fruit on oblique concentration still the focal marquee. It’s bold and beautiful, and I’m quite sure I would not choose “Italy” blind. But I also don’t think I’d pick “France”. This feels like a new-world wine, and could easily get lost in a Napa line-up. But it would be a very acidic, restrained “Napa”, owing its attributes to certain Togni/Corison/Dunn-type reflections, or even GdLPR or Maestro from a *greener* vintage. With heavy decanting, it offers a balance of all-things-considered quite refreshing, despite its blistering savory elegance. I could sell END CAPS of this stuff, and while US distribution is spotty, it IS available. One to watch for sure. Take this to your next cab-bro dinner for spectacular results!
2019 TENUTA LICINIA ‘Sasso di Fata’ Cab/CF/PV 70/25/5 IGT Toscana Italy 14.5
Stephen McConnell 