Definitely not a household name among the 99%, but old-timers who invest in the intricacies of Sonoma and value familial provenance and dedication to restrained terrior expressions over perfectly-sculpted balayage concoctions with a side of event center will grasp the Hafner appeal. I don’t open one of these very often, but when I do, it’s always an occasion. Tonight’s occasion? Opening a Hafner. And there’s about 6 people on the planet I wish were here for it.

Have you ever had something so sweet and spicy in your mouth while a battle of bitter angst raged onward on all fronts? There’s an oily petrol vague down in the bouquet, buried under cinnamon and allspice so cutting; so bright; so parallel to dusty beads of cherry you can’t decide if it’s red volcanic dust or redwood or eucalyptus or mountain hillside or granite stream or slippery shale or just a pasture below all that. And the voluminous nature of the grainy bits at the root of evil have decided the intake will be an event.

Then you taste it. The way the bitter background sends slivers and shivers through the ridiculous macerations of cherry is indescribable. Briar: poison oak and chaparral and manzanita and squaw vine, all aglow in California sunshine, yet the conifer nature of nearby in compelling. And it’s all just *barely* settling down. Long way to go on this one, boys & girls. Send them an email and 600 bucks and they’ll send you a case. And please don’t share with any influencers. I kinda want Hafner to stay Hafner.

2009 HAFNER Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Sonoma 14.5

https://www.hafnervineyard.com/