No matter how good these wines are on release, and how awesome the vintage is, it’s a good idea to check in on them regularly, as they are basically Cru Bourgeois–even though they ARE satellite offerings. Otherwise–don’t be like me–you’ll end up with a cellar full of bargains past their prime. Here’s 5 years old on a lovely Lalande Merlot and things are still beautiful, if not stunning. Still, things can go to Hell in a handbasket quickly as the dust gathers on these cheapies.
A bit of garnet graces the glass, a nose molded down into dusty tertiary quite nicely with herbs du Provence and salty leather atop still-concentrated black cherry–the *black* a definitive point. In the mouth, still showing graceful aplomb of a fabulous–almost California-like–vintage, and all the BDX austerity working overtime to keep the ripeness at bay. No significant sign of fruit-fade or fatigue, but I don’t think this a 20 year wine. My aspirations on this lovely will culminate at 10, I promise. Sharp and invigorating on the palate, a brash counter-point of acid and structure defying all your New World Merlot conceptions into things Bordeaux just magically does seemingly without too much effort. It’s not super-fruity, with bitter gloriousness chiming in at every point, TO the point of raising *tired* concerns. Perhaps dumb, but don’t let them go too long. You’re just gonna end up with a 20-dollar has-been. Hey: Don’t let me give you the wrong idea. This wine is amazing. I’m glad I have a few more to visit over the next decade. I hope you bought as many 2018’s as you could afford.
2018 VIEUX DOMAINE BERTINEAU Lalande-de-Pomerol Bordeaux France 14.5
Stephen McConnell 