Grainy funk comes out of this one–a welcome nuance from Paso indeed–settling down into thinnish vibrancy with concentrated roots. Pithy and acidic, it charms with a restraint seldom seen in the region’s cabs. Bitter tendencies avail throughout the mouthfeel, with copious tannin exclaiming the finish. Other than the rather dank ripeness in the nose, nowhere else does over-extraction surface, making this a sure win in Paso-terms. Holding up nicely, with another decade to go, safely. The watery lack of extravagance builds almost old-school Napa comparisons, and this guy is here for that.
Stephen McConnell 