It’s funny how people’s palates change. Upon first opening, I was a bit taken back by the extravagant lushness of the wine. I purchased this some years ago and it rested dusty in my cellar with plans to gift it or take it to a party or something–based largely on the supermarket provenance and gaudy screen-print. But it surprised me. THIS is the Pinot I fell in love with lo those many years ago. You have to remember, as a poor nor-cal kid cutting his teeth on wine in the 90’s, Russian River Valley WAS Pinot. From Dehlinger and Swan down into even La Crema and such things, RRV was the deciding point of a lifetime love. Sure, my palate has expanded to a myriad of other profiles of the grape over the years, from Carneros to Oregon and Victoria and SYV and Burgundy, but RRV was the first spark. And–opened on one of possibly the most nostalgic evenings of the year–THIS is Pinot as I remember it. This is the Pinot I fell in love with. At first, the ripeness, oak and concentration somewhat offended me, but then… a familiar thread rose and I began grasping at a comfortable feeling of *home*: a far less competitive time where the vineyard and cellar ruled and winemakers toiled almost namelessly. A time when WSET-1 and flat-brim did not exist, the *experience* was not part of marketing and 100-point wines happened once-a-decade. Ridiculous dark cherry fruit, a leather and lace melange melded perfectly with acid and alcohol. The dusty dank freshness signature to the variety coupled amazingly with the dusty dank influences of tertiary here at 7. Gracious–almost slutty–but never insulting, the poise and perfection represented by this bottle has me nearly verklempt. The burn of pure soil, vineyard management and careful planning into bottle are obvious throughout, as the burn of acid and alcohol polish finer points of balance brought to the forefront with wood and blasting fruit. And don’t let my writing lead you to believe this is some *Belle Glos* situation by descriptions of grandeur. This is NOT anything like that. Near-perfect Pinot. I honestly wouldn’t change a thing, and it brings flooding back all the things I classically loved about this part of Sonoma but glossed over and moved away from in search of a more-worldly palate. Don’t let this happen to you.

Fun Fact: At one point Sonoma-Cutrer was THE NUMBER ONE selling Chardonnay in the WORLD (step aside, Meridian).

2018 EMERITUS Pinot Noir Hallberg Ranch Russian River Valley Sonoma County 13.7