Dirty Coveralls Would Be More Interesting

Medium ruby–crystal-bright and glowing–all the way out to thin clear edges.  A little funk initially turns to rich vanilla and over-ripe fruit.  Deeply fruited, but not a whiff of briar or mineral or dusty or anything even remotely interesting.  So unbelievably fat and one-dimensional, with a high note of dank cellar, almost completely masked by obese, cloying sweetness of what I suppose they would call ‘fruit’.  This is really disappointing–as I had really been looking forward to the Carhart offerings.  Just absolutely nothing bouquet-wise I find interesting in a cab.  Miserable fat, glycerol-ridden overdone nothingness through-and-through.  In the mouth, not a hint of acid or backbone.  It smells like cake-frosting.  A bitter bite of what I suppose is intended to be tannin hits mid-palate and disappears just as quickly.  The whole package is just depressing.  Really a sub-par cab.  Gotta be a tasting-room winner, though.  Fat and sweet.  There’s just nothing goin on in this wine.  Avoid at all costs.  14-4    ◊

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