A Perfect Starry Night

Bright sparkling ruby with no sediment and dense, staining edges.  A minerality and leather and cassis so intense it borderlines on petrol.  Such a dense, sharp bouquet, like breathing molten steel.  Overt briar punctuates the over-ripe fruit.

I took this to a wine-snob meet recently and it showed so poorly against all the bright, lively young things in attendance it went un-drank and probably got poured out.  I decided to put the remaining three on the fast-track for consumption.  Tonight… I am really torn.  It is flabby.  It is overtly ripe.  It has little tannin.  Acid is lack-luster.  Alcohol is visible.  Yes.  I agree with all those things.  But!!  There’s this candied caramel sweetness coupled with briar and tar and incredible blackberry preserves and yes there are tannins!  Plenty of tannin.  Everything wrapped in a lovely patina of slight age.

I feel this is one of those situations where a wine is balanced enough it cancels all of the oblique notions out and comes across flabby.  This is a lovely wine.  Nowhere near sublime or phenomenal, but  a great wine.

2003 KENWOOD Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Artists Series’ Sonoma 14.5


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