SMV Syrah Becoming a Teenager

Extremely dark ruby with still-purple edges.  Considerable sed.  Huge funk on opening and gently tapering off into lush candied fruit, marzipan, nutmeg and beautiful aged oak.  Bright, stunning blackberry preserves with a spicy petrichor backbone.  I can remember when these were the darling-child of the little Byron tasting room in SMV and commanding boutique prices.  I bought a couple cases on close-out–for reasons which have always escaped me–and open one from time to time, with varying results.  Sometimes it feels dark and oxidized and going fast and other times–like this bottle–elegant and flinty with a gentle patina of age and miles of verve left on it.  I love the barnyard funk layered against the rich fruit.  Beautiful, perfect brett.  In the mouth, full-blown fruit perfectly reflective of the nose washes over the palate with clingy acids making me glad I still have over a case left.  Briary and tannic to a fault.  You can scroll back and see other bottles I have been less than gushing about, but this one exemplifies cool-climate Syrah beautifully sourced and made, and with staying power.  92/5/3 SY/MV/GR   ♦♦

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