Black Hand Steals The Show AGAIN

Light ruby out to slightly rusty edges.  Completely non-staining.  A lovely wash of barnyard and sweat manipulate an oak of un-definable age and a burning lividity.  After three hours, this becomes textbook sweet lushness polishing off sharp licorice and gravel notes.  This label really deserves to be broadcast far and wide.  Relatively obscure–family operation in San Miguel, tasting room in Cambria West Village of all places–and cranking out wines in very small lots just NAILS in varietal perfection and balance.  While technically Paso Robles, none of the fat, stupid Paso Syrahs you have had are in the same league in perfection of fruit, balance, Old World funk and substance in light of a *relatively* low AL.  Time opens up nothing flabby, and oxidation is completely foreign.  Chocolate, tar, and bright mint flow off this thing endlessly and effortlessly.  In the mouth, a bright acid note encapsulates everything you smelled but does not detract from it.  What starts off acrid and drying flows seamlessly into the full intensity of all the fruit and nuance in the bouquet–but tactile this time.  A slight 5yo-patina is relevant mid-palate and the whole package marches off 4-abreast into a vividly-fruited and blisteringly tannic forever-finish.  An absolute perfect blend of Old World funk and acid with New World ripeness and fruit.  I think this wine is sold out, but you should check.  I think this might be my Syrah of the year for 2015.  2010 Black Hand Syrah Reserve Paso Robles 14-5  ♦♦♦

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