Punch Me I’m Dreaming

Deep impenetrable garnet with opaque edges.  Massive candied briar nose, thick and unrelenting, dark and concentrated, packed with disgustingly ripe black cherry.  A beautiful bretty patina of age laced with mascarpone and wilted lily.  So unbelievably thick and viscous, maple syrup sweet and sickeningly sweet.  The briar high-note rises above all and slays EVERYTHING in its path but the depth of fruit and absolute concentration woo terribly.  A slutty combination of blackness and brightness hard to resist.  There are few things I like better than a good Madiran.  There’s something so raw, so intense, fruity and utterly blasphemous in relation to calm, smooth, polished French wines.  But yet it manages smoothness and polish–especially at this age.  In the mouth, the fruit takes a back seat to the acid and unrelenting Tannat structure–and at THIS age, is starting to show weakness.  Probably at absolute peak, a wretched dryness wreaks the mouth and makes you forget all fruit.  Oak leaf tea and walnut shells grapple with naked licorice and wet leather.  Chewy to a fault and grippingly tannic, but beautiful and rewarding and at the same time doing everything at 12-5.  A stunning example of what cheaper, lesser-known appells and varieties can do with the correct focus.
2000 CH. VIELLA VILLAGE Madiran  12-5

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