An Organ Of Interest

Bright clear ruby with staining edges.  A tiny musk blows off readily, revealing fire-roasted dirty roots and cocoa-butter tinged with lavender.  Good chunk of spice–think: Carrot-cake–with cream-cheese frosting and its inevitable lemon-juice.  A cellar-floor wholesomeness which can turn fat and over-ripe if you over-think it.  This thing comes off early as a well-nuanced Pinot but goes relatively round and unctuous with a couple hours of air.  The spice which flattered early becomes limp and cookie-cutter touristy late-breathing.  While distinctively Oregon, there is nothing in this wine *weird* or *dirty* or off-kilter as has been my experience with many Oregon’s.  In the mouth, all bets to ripeness and roundness are OFF, as it comes off green-raspberry thin and shockingly citric-acidic before even mid-palate.  Dark layers of wet leather, earth and tobacco linger in the sidelines, but nothing can over-take the shrill Vit-C burn.  Thinning out considerably in consistent big-pinot fashion mid-palate, considerable tannins take over and run a peppery, hot gauntlet as the finish.  Tempting to stash a few bottles away to see if anything becomes of it.  I’m thinking 5 years tops, and do not see it heading weirdly nutty, vegetal or burnt-fruit in that period.  Reasonably balanced–it still smells far better than it tastes.  But nothing is *off*, just green and young.  Would be interesting to taste 2013 of same wine for reference.

2012 ERATH Pinot Noir Leland Willamette  13-5

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